CP5 Assembly Guide
Damaged or Missing Parts All kits and parts are checked before being shipped to you. If something arrives damaged or if your kit is missing a part, please open a support ticket to inquire about a replacement. Missing parts will be replaced at our expense. Damaged parts should be returned for verification. If the part shows signs of use beyond what was necessary to determine that it was damaged, DIY Recording Equipment, LLC reserves the right not to replace the part.
Thank you for purchasing a CP5 kit! Depending on your level of experience, you should be able to turn the pile of parts in front of you into a working piece of recording gear in about one hour.
If this is your first DIY project ever, we recommend reading our Getting Started Guide before, well, getting started.
If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact us for support.
There's no need to own a full electronics lab to successfully build your CP5. All that's required is:
- Soldering iron and solder
- Wire cutters
- Phillips head screw driver
- 1/16" / 1.5mm hex key
If you don't have any of these tools, see our Recommended Tools page.
The following optional tools may make your build process more pleasant or help you troubleshoot if something goes wrong:
- Solder sucker
Populating Bags 1 & 2
Sort Page 1
Print the CP5 Component Sorting Sheet (PDF) and sort the parts in bags 1 & 2. You can identify the resistors by their color code or with a multi-meter.
Bend the resistor leads at the body so they can be inserted into the PCB.
Place All Resistors
Place the resistors in their respective places on the PCB.
Bend Resistors Against PCB
Bend the leads of the resistors against the bottom of the PCB so that the resistors stay in place during soldering.
Now solder the resistors to the PCB. Observe good soldering technique: heat the pad and lead for 2-3 seconds, apply a small bit of solder, and continue to heat the pad for another 2-3 seconds. Allow each solder joint 10 seconds to cool before moving on to the next one. The finished joints should be shiny and should have just enough solder to cover the pad entirely.
Once all of the solder joints have cooled, use your clippers to trim away the excess leads. Your goal should be to clip as close as possible to the joint without clipping the joint itself.
Cut Fuses From Tape
Use wire cutters to remove the fuses F1 and F2 from their packaging tape.
Populate Remaining Small Parts
As you did with the resistors, place, bend, solder, and trim the parts in bag 2.
NOTE: The diodes D1 and D2 are polarized. Make sure to place them so that the black line on their bodies matches that on the PCB.
Populating Bags 3 & 4
Sort Page 2
Sort the parts from bags 2, 4, some of 5 on page 2 of the Component Sorting Sheet.
Solder IC Sockets
Place the three 8-pin IC sockets in the U1-U3 positions on the PCB. Make sure to align the notch in the sockets' plastic with that one the PCB. Tape the sockets in place, solder them, then remove the tape.
Solder Colour Socket
Flip the PCB over and place the 8-pin Colour socket in the CM1 position.
Now double check: is the socket inserted from the bottom of the PCB? Can you see the big DIYRE logo? Good! Now tape and solder.
Solder Diode Bridges
Place and solder the two diode bridges in the BR1 and BR2 positions.
Populate Large Capacitors
Place, bend, solder, and trim the capacitors from bag 4.
Note that C1, C2, C3, C8, C10, and C11 are polarized, meaning they must be inserted in the PCB in a certain direction. The longer lead is the positive terminal, while the strip on the body corresponds to the negative terminal. Place the capacitors on the PCB, taking extra care to place the longer lead closer to the "+" marking on the PCB.
Populating Bag 5
Populate Mounting Brackets
Flip the PCB over and insert the brackets H1 and H2 from the bottom of the PCB. Solder them, but do not trim the leads.
Tape and Solder LED Board Sockets
Tape and solder the 12-pin sockets to the CON1 and CON2 positions.
Insert LED Board Headers and Standoffs
Insert the 12-pin headers loosely into the sockets. Also loosely thread the standoffs and two screws into the H3, H4 positions.
Sort Page 3
Sort the rest of bag 5 and bag 6 & 7 on page three of the Component Sorting Sheet.
Solder the potentiometers into the VR1 and VR2 postions and clip the excess leads.
Place the switches on the smaller LED PCB. Note that three off the switches are inserted from the bottom of the PCB, while the Colour switch is inserted from the top.
Bend Switch Leads
Use a screw driver to bend two leads of each switch against the bottom of the PCB to hold them in place.
Solder and Trim Switches
Solder the switches and trim the excess leads. Now screw the LED board onto the standoffs, making sure to seat the 12-pin headers in the CON3 and CON4 positions.
Place Switch Caps
Press the caps onto the switches.
Solder the 12-pin headers to the LED PCB.
Populating Bag 6
Attach Front Panel
Fasten the front panel to the PCB assembly by screwing the hex-drive screws into the H1 and H2 brackets. Press the LED lense through the Colour indicator hole on the front panel.
Place +48 LED
Place the red LED through the front panel over the LED1 pads. The longer lead of the LED indicates the positive terminal. Make sure to place this lead over the "+" pad. Once you've double checked it's orientation, tape the LED in place.
Solder +48 LED
Solder the LED in place by heating the pad and lead at the same time while applying a generous amount of solder.
Trim +48 LED
Trim away the excess leads of the LED and remove the tape.
Insert Colour LED
Spread the leads of the Colour LED so they will fit in the LED2 holes. On this LED, the long lead indicates the negative terminal. Insert this terminal into the "-" pad.
Press Colour LED
Press the Colour LED down until it makes contact with the motherboard PCB. This, it turns out, is the perfect place to bend the leads.
Bend Colour LED
Bend the LED towards the front panel until it sits flat against the LED PCB.
Solder Colour LED
Solder the Colour LED from the top of the LED PCB.
Trim Colour LED Leads
Trim the LED's leads from the bottom of the LED PCB.
Populating Bag 7
Bend IC Leads
See how the pins of the ICs protrude from the body at slightly wider than a 90 degree angle? In order to fit the IC into the socket, we'll need to bend the leads inward a bit. Set each IC on its side and press from the other side to bend all the leads at once. Then flip the IC over and do the same for the other side. When you are done the leads should be perpendicular to the body.
Insert the ICs U1-U3 into their respective sockets. Set the IC on top of the socket, making sure to align the semi-circular notches. Double check this! Now apply pressure with one or two fingers to press the IC firmly into the socket.
Before placing the knobs, turn the potentiometers completely counter-clockwise. Use a credit or ID card to create a space between the knob and the panel. Align the indicator line with the first position on the front panel and fasten it with the set screws.
Congratulations on completing your CP5 build. If you had any trouble or have suggestions for improving this guide, please contact us via the support page.