Distortastudio Assembly Guide
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Thank you for purchasing an Distortastudio kit! Depending on your level of experience, you should be able to turn the pile of parts in front of you into a working piece of recording gear in about 30 minutes.
If this is your first DIY project ever, we recommend reading our Getting Started Guide before, well, getting started.
If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact us for support.
Contents:Assembling the Distortastudio
- Identify Resistors
- Place Resistors
- Bend Resistors
- Solder Resistors
- Identify Ceramic Capacitors
- Place Ceramic, Solder Capacitors, and Trim Leads
- Place and Solder IC Sockets
- Place and Solder Electrolytic (Polar) Capacitor (C6)
- Place and Solder Electrolytic (Non-Polar) Capacitor (C4 & C5)
- Bend IC Leads
- Install IC
- Place and Solder Header
- Install Plastic Stand-offs
Identify the 12 resistors by measuring them with your multi-meter or by reading their color codes.
When placing a resistor, bend the resistor leads so that they can easily fit into the PCB, and place them in the in the spots labeled with the matching values on the board.
Bend the resistor leads flat to the underside of the PCB. This will hold them in place when flipping the PCB over to solder.
Solder the resistors to the PCB. Heat each pad and lead for 2-3 seconds, apply a small bit of solder, and continue to heat the pad for another 2-3 seconds. Allow each solder joint 10 seconds to cool before moving on to the next one. The finished joints should be shiny and should have just enough solder to cover the pad entirely. After that, trim the excess leads of the resistors to get them out of the way.
The are two types of ceramic caps in this kit. One is 0.1 uF (CB1 - CB4) and the other is 47pF (C1 - C3). Here is a picture to demonstrate and hopefully alleviate the confusion. On the left is CB1-CB4, and on the right is C1 - C3. Whew! Alright, good work everybody. Time to place those caps!
Place the Capacitors on the PCB and bend their leads to hold them to the board. Then, solder the capacitors and trim their leads.
Make sure the notch on the socket lines up with the drawing on the PCB. You will probably want to secure the sockets to the board somehow during soldering. Perhaps with a piece of scotch tape. Then flip the PCB over and solder the sockets in place.
When placing C6, take note of polarity marking on the PCB. Weirdly, on the PCB they mark which side is positive but on the capacitor itself they mark which side is negative. The negative side of C6 is marked with a grey stripe down the side that has minus symbols in it.
The other two electrolytic capacitors are bi-polar meaning they have no preference as to how they go on the PCB. They also don't have a grey stripe on them.
See how the pins of the IC protrude from the body at slightly wider than a 90 degree angle? In order to fit the IC into the socket, we'll need to bend the leads inward a bit. Set the IC on its side and press from the other side to bend all the leads at once. Then flip the IC over and do the same for the other side. When you are done the leads should be perpendicular to the body.
The ICs are both the same, so it doesn't matter which one goes where. When placing the ICs in the IC sockets make sure the dot on the top of the IC is facing the notched side of the IC socket. This will ensure happiness.
Place the 8-pin header through the bottom of the PCB so that the long, gold pins are pointing away from the PCB. These are the pins that will mate with the Colour Palette. Solder the header—there's no need to trim after soldering.
Snap the standoffs into the PCB so that they protrude outward on the same side as the 8-pin connector. The side with a rigid edge is the side you insert into the PCB.