SAFE Assembly Guide
Damaged or Missing Parts All kits and parts are checked before being shipped to you. If something arrives damaged or if your kit is missing a part, please open a support ticket to inquire about a replacement. Missing parts will be replaced at our expense. Damaged parts should be returned for verification. If the part shows signs of use beyond what was necessary to determine that it was damaged, DIY Recording Equipment, LLC reserves the right not to replace the part.
Thank you for purchasing an SAFE kit! SAFE is designed to be very quick and easy to assemble. You can expect your built to take between 15-30 minutes.
If this is your first DIY project ever, we recommend reading our Getting Started Guide.
If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact us for support.
Contents:Assembling the SAFE
- Required Tools
- Optional Tools
- Unpacking the Kit
- Bend Diodes and Resistor
- Place Small Parts
- Bend Leads Against PCB
- Solder Leads
- Trim Leads
- Place Potentiometer and Jack
- Bend Pot and Jack
- Solder Pot and Jack
- Strip Wires
- Twist Wires
- Insert Wires
- Solder Wires to PCB
- Take Apart Probes
- Place Probe Pieces Over Wires
- Insert Wires Into Probes
- Solder and Trim Wires
- Put Probes Together
All you need to build the SAFE are a soldering iron with a small tip, solder, and wire clippers.
We highly recommend a wire stripper for removing the insulation from the hookup wires and a desoldering pump in case you make a soldering error.
Your kit should contain:
- SAFE PCB
- 2x Diodes (orange and yellow things)
- Resistor (blue thing)
- Capacitor (yellow thing)
- Red Probe
- Black Probe
- Red Wire
- Black Wire
Bend the leads of the diodes about 1/8" away from the body so they'll be easy to insert into the PCB. Bend the resistor's leads right at the body.
Insert the diodes into the spaces marked "D1-D4." Diodes will only conduct in one direction, so make sure that the yellow lines on the diodes line up with the corresponding lines on the PCB.
Insert the resistor into the space marked "R1." The resistor doesn't care which direction it's placed in.
Insert the capacitor into the space marked "C1." It cares even less than the resistor.
Before flipping the PCB over to solder, bend the leads against the bottom of the PCB to hold the components in place.
Heat each pad and lead for 2-3 seconds, apply a small bit of solder, and continue to heat the pad for another 2-3 seconds. Allow each solder joint 10 seconds to cool before moving on to the next one. The finished joints should be shiny and should have just enough solder to cover the pad entirely.
Use your wire cutters to trim the leads down as close as possible to the solder joints.
Place the pot and jack in the spaces "VR1" and "J2."
Bend a couple of the leads of the jack against the PCB so it'll stay in place. You may need to use the blunt end of the wire cutters to push the leads against the PCB.
Solder the pot and jack to the PCB, including the pot's mounting tabs.
Cut the insulation around the hookup wires about 1/4" from each end. Leave the excess pieces of insulation on the wire for now. If you're careful you can do this with wire cutters, but it's much easier with a dedicated wire stripper.
Twist the extra pieces of insulation as you slowly pull them off the wires. This will twist the individual strands into a nice spiral and prevent fraying during soldering.
Insert the wires into the holes marked "J1" from the top. Put the red wire in the hole next to the "+" sign.
Solder the wires to the PCB and trim them down to the solder joint.
Carefully take apart the two pieces of the probes.
Put the wires through the plastic-only pieces of the probes as shown.
Place the ends of the wires through the holes in the metal part of each probe. Bend the bare parts of the wire against the metal of the probe to create a solid mechanical connection before soldering.
Solder the wires to the metal parts of the probes and trim any extra wire.
Put the parts of the probes back together. Press the plastic metal part into the plastic part just enough so that it stays together. You should be able to easily engage the spring to push the hook out from the top of the probe.
Congrats on completing your SAFE kit. You can now use it to test your other DIY gear without fear of damaging your audio interface.