Vintage Output Assembly Guide
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You'll need the tools below to complete this build.
We recommend an adjustable-temperature station, such as the $40 Weller WLC100.
You can use 60/40 "leaded" solder or lead-free. We recommend 60/40 because it flows better and is easier for beginners to use.
Phillips Head Screwdriver
A #1 Phillips head screwdriver.
You'll need a pair of good "snips" for cutting of the excess leads after soldering.
These tools aren't strictly necessary but can make your build a bit easier.
A bit of clear tape will help hold some tricky components in place for soldering.
If you find the color bands on resistors a bit hard to read, you can use a meter to sort them with absolute confidence.
If you accidentally solder something in the wrong place, a desoldering pump can save the day.
Build the Stock Kit
This guide assumes that you have already built the stock EQP5 or OLA5 with the Modern output and whatever discrete opamp (DOA) you plan to use. If you haven't built your EQP5, OLA5, or DOA yet, follow that guide and the come back here!
Resistors and Capacitors
Solder Resistors and Small Cap
Identify the resistors via their color codes or my measuring them with a meter. Then place the resistors and small capacitor in their respective positions on the PCB. The capacitor is not polarized. Bend the leads against the PCB, solder, and trim.
Note that you will be have an extra resistor, as the EQP5 and OLA5 require different gain-setting resistors.
Solder Tantalum Capacitor
Locate the "+" text on the body of the large, tantalum capacitor. This indicates the positive lead of the cap. Place the cap with the positive lead next to the "+" on the PCB. Note that this capacitor may be either 220uF or 330uF.
Solder and trim.
Place DOA Sockets
Place the DOA sockets in the six plated holes of DOA1. Place tape over them to hold them in place during soldering.
Note: There is one extra socket in case you drop one.
Solder DOA Sockets
Solder the DOA sockets and remove the tape.
Trim the leads of the transformer down to about 1.5" (38mm). Be generous! You can always cut them shorter, but you can't make them longer after you've cut.
Then strip off about 1/8" (3mm) of the insulation and tin the leads by applying a bit of solder.
Fasten the transformer in the X1 position with the included screws, nuts, and washers. Insert the screw through from the bottom of the PCB, then place the mounting parts over the screw in this order: plastic washers, transformer, lock washers, nuts.
Place the leads of the transformer through their respective holes (the GRY and VIO holes will remain empty) and bend the leads against the bottom of the PCB. Then flip the PCB over, solder, and trim.
Place the DOA in the sockets. Push down until you feel the leads snap into place. If you purchased the RED-25, see the RED-25 Assembly Guide.
Move the jumpers on CON1 from "IC" (Modern) to "FE" (Vintage). You can change the jumpers back any time you want to use the Modern output.
Before you wrap up, check the following things:
All good? Congrats on finishing your build! Have a question or problem? Drop us a line.
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